I am doing some more research for the project and I came across some good advice from Husqvarna Outlet.
Before your first engine start-up, you must follow the procedure below:
Step 1: Prelube cylinder w/ thin layer of engine oil before installing head.
Then tighten all head studs to 22-24 Ft-lbs.
Step 2: Wait 15 minutes, do not start engine, and re-tighten studs to the same 22-24 Ft-lbs.
Why? Cause the pressure will stretch the head studs and the new gasket(s) will flatten.
Step 3: Then start engine, let idle for 5 minutes, and go for a 30 minute ride at no more than 1/2 throttle.
Step 4: Once engine is cool, re-tighten head studs again to the same 22-24 Ft-lbs, change transmission oil,
check clutch cable adjustment, and change the spark plug to finish the break-in process.
You must re-tighten the head studs 3 separate times or you may run the risk of low compression or even possible engine failure.
Ok I am starting to think about how the bike might run or what all I might be needing to do to make it run. In the past day or so I have been thinking about getting the engine rebuilt and I have been curious about the muffler. The muffler that I have is not in the best of shape and I was thinking would a 4-stroke muffler go onto a 2-stroke engine? I started looking and I ran across something that kind of answers my question. I went to ask.com and typed in “what is the difference between a 4 stroke muffler and a 2 stroke muffler” and I ran across this on dirtrider.net.
Hi, I’m just a curious guy and I was wanting to know if it is safe to run a 2-stroke without a muffler. I know it won’t harm a 4-stroke because it gives it more backpressure. But, will it harm or blow a 2-stroke? Now, I’m not saying i’ll do this, I’m just curious and wanting to know something. So, don’t give me crap about quiet is good, because i know that and I’m with that. But, I just want to know a question from you guys that do this. THANKS!
The tailsection of a two-stroke (stinger/muffler) works as a pressure bleed. Removing the silencer will change the pressure bleed and keep heat from building in the pipe, making it act as if the tuned length of the pipe was incredibly LONG. The pipe will be completely out of tune with the engine and the bike will run poorly. Plus only a complete JUGHEAD would pull the silencer off of ANY bike
Thank You! You answered my question. Wherever I go, I can never get an answer because there is always JUGHEADS that write back and say “Less Sound=More Ground”. Which I know is true, but can’t a guy ask a simple question and get a simple answer? Thanks again Rich. Oh, one more question: so what do the dirt bike hillclimbers and snowmobile grass draggers do to their bikes/sleds to make them run with open stingers?
They build in a longer stinger off the last convergent cone with a fairly small exit diameter. This will establish a specific pressure bleed and build heat backwards so the pipe runs at a specific temperature that matches the port timing and basic tuning of the engine.
And one more added note, the power difference between a properly designed silencer and a properly designed stinger is negligable, so that is definately not where I would go looking for power gains.
kdxsam, the biggest key to keeping performance with your silencer is to not let it get “blown out”. You should repack the fiberglass regularly and keep it clean, that will also give you a nice exhaust tone and not that “clapped out” sound.
I am wondering if this muffler will work it says its universal spark arrestor 200cc – 500cc but is that for 2-stroke and 4-stroke bikes.